Queen of Cuisine: Alma Mater

our_space_1516BY CARLA WALDEMAR

Alma
528 University Avenue SE
612-379-4909
www.restaurantalma.com

Let’s!” exclaimed a friend when I suggested dining at Restaurant Alma: “It’s been way too long!” When concentrating on the ongoing surge of new eateries in Lyn-Uptown and the Warehouse District, we’d forgotten about one of the all-time best in the Twin Cities, maintaining award-winning dining (think James Beard, etc.) on the fringe of Dinkytown since 1999. Big mistake. Alma is alive and well (and packed to the rafters), serving a prix-fixe menu of three courses (with five choices within each category) for $55, each like a sonnet on a plate: love poems of thoughtful and well-curated (but never out-there scary) kitchen gems, composed of seasonal, local and organic ingredients.
From among the first courses, we (as usual) shared plates. Mine: a toss of chilled roasted broccoli and radicchio sprinkled with bread crumbs, sparked by flecks of chili, then matched by a muscular (but not uber-dominant) drizzle of anchovy cream—a pairing that’s off the radar yet seems like a longtime, natural companion. His choice: pole beans and leaf lettuce tangled with chilled, sliced potatoes, bits of anise-hinting fennel and a fennel pesto to bind the salad plate. I’ll be back for both again.
Next, from among the “middles,” we started with a trio of chickpea and potato fritters attended by a couple of sweet, tender little prawns, peanuts and an almost-tart green-tomato chutney to paint on the deep-fried clusters. Then, a rice-based casserole of spunky lamb curry livened with fresh ginger, a topknot of flash-fried shallots and herbs fresh from the garden—also tasty, and a “safer” dish—tasty but with fewer surprises (and that’s OK). Next time: the “usual” squash-filled agnolotti pasta pockets, but here elevated from the same-old with squid ink and calamari on the plate. Or the parchment-encased pork belly, again saved from redundancy by a unique sorghum-guajillo pepper sauce.
Entrees followed. First, my standout plate of duck two ways: rosy breast meat medallions and a leg in confit, attended by roasted turnips, braised swiss chard, and—what’s this?—peaches! A skim of sweet, fruity puree works to soften the hardiness of the autumnal veggies and play nice with the richness of the duck.
our_space_1363Speaking of autumnal—consider my pal’s plate of roasted pork tenderloin, a winner paired with a savory potato gratin, mushrooms and a subtle (thank goodness—no overkill of salt) ragu of ham hocks. Remember that one as the temps begin to plummet.
After those generous plates, we couldn’t manage dessert (portions in $6 or $10 sizes: How sensible is that? And how irresistible? ). But if you’re game, go for the raspberry green-tea tart with lychee sorbet. Or the lemongrass semifreddo aside coconut angelfood cake and lime granita.
Seating is comfortable and quiet enough to hold a conversation, and the service is beyond ideal, from detailed explanations to timing of the courses. Alma, you’re still as sweet as ever!

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