BY CARLA WALDEMAR
Alma
528 University Avenue SE
612-379-4909
www.restaurantalma.com
Let’s!” exclaimed a friend when I suggested dining at Restaurant Alma: “It’s been way too long!” When concentrating on the ongoing surge of new eateries in Lyn-Uptown and the Warehouse District, we’d forgotten about one of the all-time best in the Twin Cities, maintaining award-winning dining (think James Beard, etc.) on the fringe of Dinkytown since 1999. Big mistake. Alma is alive and well (and packed to the rafters), serving a prix-fixe menu of three courses (with five choices within each category) for $55, each like a sonnet on a plate: love poems of thoughtful and well-curated (but never out-there scary) kitchen gems, composed of seasonal, local and organic ingredients.
From among the first courses, we (as usual) shared plates. Mine: a toss of chilled roasted broccoli and radicchio sprinkled with bread crumbs, sparked by flecks of chili, then matched by a muscular (but not uber-dominant) drizzle of anchovy cream—a pairing that’s off the radar yet seems like a longtime, natural companion. His choice: pole beans and leaf lettuce tangled with chilled, sliced potatoes, bits of anise-hinting fennel and a fennel pesto to bind the salad plate. I’ll be back for both again.
Next, from among the “middles,” we started with a trio of chickpea and potato fritters attended by a couple of sweet, tender little prawns, peanuts and an almost-tart green-tomato chutney to paint on the deep-fried clusters. Then, a rice-based casserole of spunky lamb curry livened with fresh ginger, a topknot of flash-fried shallots and herbs fresh from the garden—also tasty, and a “safer” dish—tasty but with fewer surprises (and that’s OK). Next time: the “usual” squash-filled agnolotti pasta pockets, but here elevated from the same-old with squid ink and calamari on the plate. Or the parchment-encased pork belly, again saved from redundancy by a unique sorghum-guajillo pepper sauce.
Entrees followed. First, my standout plate of duck two ways: rosy breast meat medallions and a leg in confit, attended by roasted turnips, braised swiss chard, and—what’s this?—peaches! A skim of sweet, fruity puree works to soften the hardiness of the autumnal veggies and play nice with the richness of the duck.
Speaking of autumnal—consider my pal’s plate of roasted pork tenderloin, a winner paired with a savory potato gratin, mushrooms and a subtle (thank goodness—no overkill of salt) ragu of ham hocks. Remember that one as the temps begin to plummet.
After those generous plates, we couldn’t manage dessert (portions in $6 or $10 sizes: How sensible is that? And how irresistible? ). But if you’re game, go for the raspberry green-tea tart with lychee sorbet. Or the lemongrass semifreddo aside coconut angelfood cake and lime granita.
Seating is comfortable and quiet enough to hold a conversation, and the service is beyond ideal, from detailed explanations to timing of the courses. Alma, you’re still as sweet as ever!
