Dwight Alexander, owner of Smoke in the Pit
BY ELAINE KLAASSEN
In the March issue of Southside Pride, Ed Felien, the owner, publisher, and editor-in-chief of the newspaper, wrote this:
“We have mourned the unfair and untimely death of George Floyd for almost five years. Perhaps it’s time now to celebrate his life. He worked security for local night clubs because he liked good food and good music. To honor that memory, we should have a place that spreads joy. How about a barbeque joint with the best ribs in town?”
Then he went on, describing an imaginary festive rib joint at George Floyd Square. Patrons of Smoke in the Pit and Just Turkey, which stand right next to each other on Chicago Ave. in George Floyd Square, know that not just one, but two, highly delicious BBQ joints are already there. Having enjoyed food from Smoke in the Pit and Just Turkey myself at different times, I hurried to tell Ed of his mistake. He apologized profusely.
These places may not have floor to ceiling photos of a young and smiling George Floyd, as Felien suggested, but they definitely bring joy to their devoted customers. SITP, with its greens, beans, coleslaw and every other kind of southern style side dish — not to mention its catfish, wings and tender ribs — has been on Chicago Ave. just north of 38th St. since 2013. Just Turkey, with its turkey lasagna, turkey tacos, turkey burgers and BBQ turkey tips, settled in next door to SITP right before the pandemic lockdown.
Mural on the outside of Smoke in the Pit
On the heels of the COVID 19 lockdown, George Floyd was murdered at the corner of 38th and Chicago. The neighborhood was in shock, and wounded. For the following year, the area was closed off to vehicles, to the city, and there was no police protection. It was a safe place for criminals even while community members worked hard to create a peaceful, nonviolent place. Traffic to the two restaurants slowed down considerably. One of the two bosses at the turkey-only restaurant, Raheem, said people were leery about coming to George Floyd Square. There were a lot of shootings. It seemed risky. He said, “The turkey’s good, but not THAT good.”
Now, he feels better since a lot of the troublemakers have been locked up. But the businesses have suffered because of the wider public’s lingering perception.
Raheem is in favor of keeping the streets open so the police and the ambulance can get in if necessary. Also, delivery services like Door Dash, Grub Hub, Uber Eats, etc., need to be able to drive right up to the front door as well as the big semi-trucks bringing supplies, which are too big to drive through the alley behind the restaurant.
Dwight Alexander — the owner of Smoke in the Pit since he took over from his parents, Dwight and Ivy Alexander in 2021 — said he has no big semi-trucks bringing supplies to his restaurant since he goes personally to buy ingredients. He agrees with Raheem, though, that the streets should stay open.
Dwight doesn’t like the looks of 38th and Chicago. “It’s cluttered and dirty, there’s a sad mood and nobody’s passing by.”
I was there on that warm Friday night in March when you could go out in your shirt sleeves and experienced a similar feeling — that it was a deserted area. Not hopping. I wished it was busier, with more people eating barbecue.
My friend Jan and I shared a beef brisket sandwich, mac and cheese and greens, sitting in the patio in front of Agape’s building.
Just Turkey and Smoke in the Pit
The food was excellent — and as someone who has eaten the greens of various cultures fixed in many variations, I know what I’m talking about when I say the collards at SITP are 2 die 4. I wasn’t surprised to learn that Dwight cooks everything from scratch.
There was nobody at Just Turkey on Friday night because, as a woman walking by told me, their smoker wasn’t working, and they had closed for the day. When I was there the next Monday, trying the very satisfying turkey tacos, smoker repairs were almost finished.
Both cooks are equally intense. Born and raised in Chicago, Raheem learned to cook from his mom and worked on perfecting his concepts doing catering, birthday parties, festivals, class reunions, and barbecues. He shares his food philosophy, that “the stomach is the straight way to the heart.” Laughing, he says, “If the food’s good, you’re gonna love me.”
Born and raised at 38th and Clinton, in Minneapolis, Dwight didn’t know exactly how he learned to cook — it was just something they did in their family, like a natural part of life.
Both restaurants make their own signature BBQ sauce. Both of them have many rave reviews online. Just Turkey is part of a larger franchise — the turkey BBQ concept started in 2007 and there are two locations in Chicago and one in L.A. Smoke in the Pit is unique to Minneapolis and now rests on the shoulders of Dwight junior. The dishes follow a long tradition and include meat at a serious level.
When you step inside the door at SITP to order or to pick up your order, it’s a small, dark space which is even darker if you are wearing shades. So, remember to take off your dark glasses. There are two windows, one for placing orders and one for getting your food from the kitchen. It’s takeout only, except in the summer, when the city puts up a deck out in front, and you can eat right there. The façade of the building is bright and upbeat.
Dwight Alexander, owner of Smoke in the Pit
Just Turkey is an indoor restaurant with a warm decor: black tables and chairs, a large-squared black-and-white checkered floor, and two striking wall colors: burgundy with a touch of rust and a dense orangey-yellow like a tropical fruit for which Just Turkey has a paint recipe and a copyright on the color.
For both restaurants you can order online and pick up your food a little later, or get it through Door Dash, etc. It is also possible to walk up to the counter or the window to give your order and then wait.
If you choose to wait at the Square, take advantage of the time by checking out Bichota, the coffee shop next to People’s Way (open until 4 p.m.), maybe look at some of King Demetrius Pendleton’s photos, or those of Wing Young Huie, or stroll into Wally D’s reasonably priced Finish Touch clothing store north of Just Turkey, or see what Fire Arts are working on.
38th and Chicago is still a place of mourning, but at the same time, there is a quietly vital community living and working there. And especially some great cooks!!
Editor’s Note: I lived for a while, more than 50 years ago, five doors down from 38th and Chicago. It’s been a while since I walked around down there.
