The corrections we printed in the Nokomis edition of April have been incorporated into this article.
BY CARLA WALDEMAR
Savory Bake House
3008 36th Ave. S.
612-729-1310
http://savorybakehouse.letseat.at/
So … did East Lake Street need a bakery? “We opened on Dec. 18 and I just had my first day off,” declares overworked Max Okray. He’s the man behind Savory Bake House, at 3008 36th Ave. S., and Sandy Sherva—his girlfriend and chief baker—is the woman. They met while working at Birchwood Café—a highlight on Sandy’s culinary resume, which runs from The Wedge to Barbette and, most recently, Merlins Rest, here in the ’hood.
Max is the muscle that helped transport a former gallery into what might be the tiniest bakery in the metro. In fact, designer after designer laughed and walked away until Max met Jim Smart of Smart + Associates, whose response was—as is his custom—“We’ll make it work.”
So, for well over a year, the couple’s talented tile specialist and their contractor laid tile and scrounged barn wood to reclaim. The tin ceiling got installed and the front door got rebuilt. Meanwhile, a friend of Sandy’s painted—an eye-catching tangerine exterior and lime-bright inside, while the neighbors watched. And waited.
Business has been steady-to-hectic ever since, from morning to the lunch rush into the afternoon (providing there’s anything left at the counter by then). People ask, “Out of the [name your item]? Why don’t you just bake more every day?” to the crew of two, who cannot remember the meaning of “sleep” as it is.
I’m chewing a savory, veggie-laced brioche slice as I type and regretting that I failed to snag more of the rich, flaky treat. (But the guy behind me knew better, and cleaned out the case.) Folks were lined up for the best-selling individual chicken pot pie ($5) and scones, both sweet and savory (think bacon-Cheddar-thyme or sundried tomato-Parmesan); a dense, slim molasses-pecan tart slice; the now-iconic churro cream puff; a super-elegant individual dessert circle composed of lemon custard atop poppyseed cake mined with fresh blueberries; an array of muffins, bars, cheesecake slices (today: sweet potato topped with sour cream) and cookies, $1 each: chocolate chip, double ginger-molasses, amaretti, and the addictive, already-legendary date balls (Rice Krispies, walnuts and coconut) that cause patrons to declare, “My mother/ grandmother/auntie used to make these!”
That’s exactly what Max and Sandy love to hear. “Our aim: To offer real food in a caring fashion at affordable prices. Nothing uppity here.”
FireLake Grill House & Cocktail Bar
31 S. 7th St.
612-216-3473
www.firelakerestaurant.com
Put two food-and-bev bros from Stillwater together, and what do you get? A fabulous—fabulous!—dinner marrying that town’s beer meister from Liftbridge with another native, the downtown Radisson Blu’s exec chef, Jim Kyndberg, in his home kitchen, Firelake. This unsung guy is so good, and an original forager for Minnesota products, but doesn’t get the attention the local media chefs do.
Passed apps included corned (better than beef) venison Reubens; foie gras meatballs; and spicy duck wings, setting the tone for the game to follow: venison sausage paired with Hop Dish IPA; Korean fried pheasant paired with kohlrabi slaw and Farm Girl, the brewery’s best-seller. Then a Liftbridge recipe for wild boar chili with queso and cracklings, paired with Getaway Pilsner, and the top hit of the evening, bison short rib in root beer BBQ sauce, plated with vanilla-poached shrimp upon cauliflower puree (the best surf ’n’ turf ever?) saluted with The Warden Milk Stout. A trio of desserts—fennel pollen ice cream sandwich featuring oatmeal-raisin cookies; caramelized white chocolate pudding in Bourbon hard sauce; and chocolate cremeux with beer caramel and sea salt—were treated to a Liftbridge trio of Biscotti, similar to a Belgian ale; Commander, a high-alcohol barleywine; and Silhouette, the most imperial of Imperial Stouts.
Next up: A March 10 Instagram-worthy dinner featuring Jason DeRusha introducing Chef Jim’s new spring menu. Reserve at www.firelakerestaurant.com.
